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Post by Deleted on Jul 26, 2014 13:25:09 GMT 1
Thinking of a little veg plot for next year in an ideal area in the garden, salad leaves, new potatoes, courgettes etc. When is the best time to get started, and planting, this thread has inspired us?
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Post by ThrobsBlackHat on Jul 26, 2014 16:02:55 GMT 1
Thinking of a little veg plot for next year in an ideal area in the garden, salad leaves, new potatoes, courgettes etc. When is the best time to get started, and planting, this thread has inspired us? You don't want much in the ground while frost is still a risk. You can get your seedlings going on a window sill indoors in a special tray, or can just buy from a nursery in about may. I would advise you to not plant spuds in the same ground as you'll plant other vegetables - get one of the spud bags for them or a separate plot. If they get blight or any of the associated diseases it can really make it hard work to grow stuff there again for several years - courgettes for example will pick up almost anything in the ground and you don't want them dying off. French or runner beans are a no brainer starting out because of a huge harvest and they're very easy to grow. Likewise courgettes can be very prolific as long as they stay dry enough - don't water the leaves at night but the roots. Carrots are normally pretty hardy too. Stuff that's a bit more random like pumpkins or whatever can take flipping ages and not give you much reward because the plant is huge and you only finish with a pumpkin!
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Post by The Shropshire Tenor on Jul 26, 2014 18:13:50 GMT 1
Thinking of a little veg plot for next year in an ideal area in the garden, salad leaves, new potatoes, courgettes etc. When is the best time to get started, and planting, this thread has inspired us? If you have a small plot don't grow courgettes, they make very big plants. Grow things you like to eat, seems obvious but some people grow things because they are easy or fashionable and then don't eat them. Don't bother with stuff that's cheap to buy in the shops. For example, main crop spuds are always cheap but first earlies are not. Garden peas cheap but sugar peas expensive. I don't agree with Throb about spuds, the only other plant blight will affect is tomatoes as they are in the same family of plants - courgettes are not. Anyway, early spuds are unlikely to get blight unless you leave them in the ground too long. I do agree with him about climbing beans, the best crop you can grow. I'd go for climbing french beans, better flavour than runners. Sow broad beans (Aqualduce Claudia) in autumn for them to crop in spring then pull them out and replace with climbers. If you've room soft fruit is good, this year has been brilliant for strawberries, blackcurrants and blueberries. Salads such as lettuce or oriental leaves are easy and quick, I love Rocket and the spicy Indian leaves. I wouldn't bother with brassicas (cabbage, cauli etc) unless you really like them. They seem to attract every pest and disease going and pigeons will strip the leaves off them if they're not netted. Finally, everyone's garden is different, even in the same area. Soil and micro climate will determine what grows well and you'll learn by trial and error. I can't grow carrots or celery, for example.
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Post by ThrobsBlackHat on Jul 26, 2014 18:48:26 GMT 1
Thinking of a little veg plot for next year in an ideal area in the garden, salad leaves, new potatoes, courgettes etc. When is the best time to get started, and planting, this thread has inspired us? I don't agree with Throb about spuds, the only other plant blight will affect is tomatoes as they are in the same family of plants - courgettes are not. Anyway, early spuds are unlikely to get blight unless you leave them in the ground too long. Just my experience. I probably left the spuds in too long but then for 2-3 further years that plot didn't produce. Tomatoes went black. Courgettes went white. I think a courgette plant generally is a no brainer if you like them as they are so fruitful, and so expensive. One year I had over 50 off one plant then a marrow. There are few things that can beat that. We got into all sorts of weird courgette salads that summer!
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Post by Deleted on Jul 26, 2014 19:09:04 GMT 1
If you are going to grow salad crops, then stagger your planting. No good planting dozens of lettuce say, at the same time as they will all mature at the same time, and all rot at the same time, unless you love eating loads of lettuce. Plant a few at a time and by the time you have used them others will be ready to pick. i learnt from experience .
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Post by Matster on Jul 26, 2014 19:17:45 GMT 1
Thinking of a little veg plot for next year in an ideal area in the garden, salad leaves, new potatoes, courgettes etc. When is the best time to get started, and planting, this thread has inspired us? Get the bed prepared this summer/autumn. Dig area you want to use over and add loads of organic matter/well rotted manure. Quite a few plants according to instructions don't like freshly added manure plus digging over soil releases all of those seeds hidden in the soil so you have a chance of weeding them in spring. Grow tomatoes and runner beans early indoors to give them a head start. Consider somewhere pleasantly sunny in spring to put some seed trays. Organise with someone else to share seeds/seedlings. Asparagus is also a good cut and come again plant once it has been in the ground for a couple of years. I grow spuds in bags but use my own compost as buying shop stuff makes them very expensive! As mentioned above runner beans are a profitable veg to grow compared to shop bought. Shropshire Tenor - I will have to try growing sugar snap peas!
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Post by davycrockett on Jul 26, 2014 19:39:34 GMT 1
Growing potatoes which have done well and are ready to crop... Question for our resident experts out there is should I dig them up and store or harvest them as needed and leave them in the ground? Over the last week the growth has all but burnt dry despite evening waterings a couple of times. whats the best way to store them? Don't leave them in the ground, keel slugs and wireworms will eat them plus they will get scab and probably blight. Try to find traditional hessian sacks to put them in and store them in a cool dark place. Re tomatoes, I'm growing 4 varieties in my greenhouse and sweet million has been the first to ripen. Cool dark place ? I wish I could find one I'd be there myself ! Thanks
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Post by Deleted on Jul 26, 2014 20:12:19 GMT 1
Thanks for the advice guys, you sound experts, I shall print the page off. I don't think we will be growing potatoes, but definitely the salad crops, tomatoes, courgettes, carrots a few beans but don't want to have loads of stored beans come the end of the crop, and like the idea of French beans.
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Post by theriverside on Jul 26, 2014 20:58:26 GMT 1
If anyone growing spuds next year wants some free seed potatoes nearer the time please feel free to PM me with your requirements
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Post by Matster on Jul 26, 2014 22:03:48 GMT 1
Thanks for the advice guys, you sound experts, I shall print the page off. I don't think we will be growing potatoes, but definitely the salad crops, tomatoes, courgettes, carrots a few beans but don't want to have loads of stored beans come the end of the crop, and like the idea of French beans. We've already had a couple of pounds of runners so far but have maybe 16 odd plants in! After what we've eaten we gave a few to parents. They are easy to freeze, just skin the sides and chop them up and freeze them. I've also stuck peas and nastertiums in at the base. Nastertiums distract the blackfly and peas give you erm peas to snack on.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 26, 2014 23:58:46 GMT 1
I find tomatoes grow best in bags in supemarkets. I don't like the idea of growing things. My neighbour said he'd grown some grapes but then he said he was going have to have a week in hospital after having them removed. I'll just stick to growing older.
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owdlad
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Post by owdlad on Jul 27, 2014 0:26:42 GMT 1
Don't you just love this site? How many others have threads on gardening? For the record, I think runner beans are the best crop in a smaller garden. You get a good yield and they look pretty. Not worth growing much else. Of course, if you've a bigger garden or even an allotment then it's a different story. Herbs good as they grow happily in pots - chives, mint, rosemary etc
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Post by shrewinjapan on Jul 27, 2014 4:17:34 GMT 1
Can you grow corn in the UK climate?
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Post by shrewder on Jul 27, 2014 6:22:08 GMT 1
Can you grow corn in the UK climate? Yes some do grow sweetcorn. A farmer near me in Worcester has a sweetcorn maze on a different theme each august.
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Post by shrewinjapan on Jul 27, 2014 6:42:09 GMT 1
Can you grow corn in the UK climate? Yes some do grow sweetcorn. A farmer near me in Worcester has a sweetcorn maze on a different theme each august. It's quite popular here. I'm going to try and grow some next year, as I've been developing quite an addiction to corn on the cob this summer
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Post by davycrockett on Jul 27, 2014 10:34:46 GMT 1
Yep corn grows well but you need a fairly long season for it to ripen ... Most farmers grow it for fodder I believe I'll just measure mine planted out beginning of June and just flowering ( getting tape) ... 1200mm bit to go yet Potatoes cropped at 7.30 this morning all OK except the one I forked Just going to pick more French beans, prefer to runner as you have to be on the ball and eat at just the right time to avoid stringy beans yuk Oh also 6 figs but need the hot dry spell to continue to ripen
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Post by shrewder on Jul 1, 2015 15:19:47 GMT 1
Got 12 plants this year, all growing very well in this heat. Growing against the south facing wall of the house.
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Post by Matster on Jul 1, 2015 21:05:49 GMT 1
I've got Sungold, Gardner's Delight, and a new one for me - Red Pear which are ... Pear shaped!
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Post by shrewder on Jul 2, 2015 5:50:19 GMT 1
Got Gardeners Delight, Sweet Millions, Alicante, Shirley, Roma, Ferrari and another variety can't remember at present.
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Post by NelsonShrew on Jul 2, 2015 13:21:17 GMT 1
Cant help but be reminded about my Gramps with all this veg growing talk
*reminisces*
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Post by atcham jack on Jul 2, 2015 15:10:45 GMT 1
been harvesting broad beans all week and enjoying them for lunch. peas next then runner beans. not tried Toms recently,
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Post by Chic on Jul 2, 2015 15:26:45 GMT 1
Out of interest how often are you watering your outside tomatoes? (Before this heat wave) I was told you get a sweeter tomato if you don't over water! So normally water every 3 days is that about right?
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Post by shrewder on Jul 2, 2015 16:57:51 GMT 1
Out of interest how often are you watering your outside tomatoes? (Before this heat wave) I was told you get a sweeter tomato if you don't over water! So normally water every 3 days is that about right? I water once a day when hot at the base of the plants. It is correct that the less you water the sweeter they are. My plants dry out quicker in hot weather as they are against the south wall of the house with a clear pvc open sided cover fixed to side of house.
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Post by Matster on Jul 2, 2015 17:21:46 GMT 1
Don't water too much as you'll get blossom end rot.
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Post by siabod on Jul 2, 2015 17:30:43 GMT 1
Growing potatoes which have done well and are ready to crop... Question for our resident experts out there is should I dig them up and store or harvest them as needed and leave them in the ground? Over the last week the growth has all but burnt dry despite evening waterings a couple of times. whats the best way to store Build a potato tump, make a slight depression in ground (about half a spades depth) Length and width depends on amount to be stored, line with straw, place crop in a mound again cover with straw and then a good covering of soil. Keep a small opening at the most sheltered end and use from there remembering to replace straw after each use, this will usually protect against the hardest of winters. Not really suitable if you have only half a dozen King Edwards.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 2, 2015 18:03:09 GMT 1
I loved growing my own veg and only gave up my allotment last year after many years of enjoyment ( and hard work) . Just a quick note re watering of toms, both greenhouse and outdoor. Aim to keep the soil moist . If you water only when the soil is dry you will end up with blossom end rot and the fruit will also split. If you are going away for any length of time ask a friend, neighbour to water for you . What you don't want is to come home to find the soil dry . Many will then flood the soil (compost ) to compensate which will encourage the plants to suddenly take up water and so split the fruit . If you are growing in pots or grow bags you must water regularly .
As your plants grow you may find that you have quite a few trusses on the plant . My advice is to limit these to 4 or 5 at most and remove the growing tip about 2 leaves above the last truss. This saves the plants energy and allows the fruit to swell so providing a good sized crop . Don't forget to pinch out the side shoots ( where the leaf stalk joins the stem ) when they are about 1 inch long.
Last season I grew bush varieties at home in large pots,which don't need pruning or staking ,with excellent results , loads of small , sweet toms . Happy gardening to all . You will have your successes and failures but it's a great hobby to get into and it's amazing what you can grow in containers at home . All that lovely fresh food on your doorstep tasting far better than the supermarket crap .
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Post by Deleted on Jul 2, 2015 18:05:33 GMT 1
I loved growing my own veg and only gave up my allotment last year after many years of enjoyment ( and hard work) . Just a quick note re watering of toms, both greenhouse and outdoor. Aim to keep the soil moist . If you water only when the soil is dry you will end up with blossom end rot and the fruit will also split. If you are going away for any length of time ask a friend, neighbour to water for you . What you don't want is to come home to find the soil dry . Many will then flood the soil (compost ) to compensate which will encourage the plants to suddenly take up water and so split the fruit . If you are growing in pots or grow bags you must water regularly .
As your plants grow you may find that you have quite a few trusses on the plant . My advice is to limit these to 4 or 5 at most and remove the growing tip about 2 leaves above the last truss. This saves the plants energy and allows the fruit to swell so providing a good sized crop . Don't forget to pinch out the side shoots ( where the leaf stalk joins the stem ) when they are about 1 inch long.
Last season I grew bush varieties at home in large pots,which don't need pruning or staking ,with excellent results , loads of small , sweet toms . Happy gardening to all . You will have your successes and failures but it's a great hobby to get into and it's amazing what you can grow in containers at home . All that lovely fresh food on your doorstep tasting far better than the supermarket crap .
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Post by shrewder on Jul 2, 2015 19:12:33 GMT 1
I loved growing my own veg and only gave up my allotment last year after many years of enjoyment ( and hard work) . Just a quick note re watering of toms, both greenhouse and outdoor. Aim to keep the soil moist . If you water only when the soil is dry you will end up with blossom end rot and the fruit will also split. If you are going away for any length of time ask a friend, neighbour to water for you . What you don't want is to come home to find the soil dry . Many will then flood the soil (compost ) to compensate which will encourage the plants to suddenly take up water and so split the fruit . If you are growing in pots or grow bags you must water regularly . As your plants grow you may find that you have quite a few trusses on the plant . My advice is to limit these to 4 or 5 at most and remove the growing tip about 2 leaves above the last truss. This saves the plants energy and allows the fruit to swell so providing a good sized crop . Don't forget to pinch out the side shoots ( where the leaf stalk joins the stem ) when they are about 1 inch long. Last season I grew bush varieties at home in large pots,which don't need pruning or staking ,with excellent results , loads of small , sweet toms . Happy gardening to all . You will have your successes and failures but it's a great hobby to get into and it's amazing what you can grow in containers at home . All that lovely fresh food on your doorstep tasting far better than the supermarket cr@p . Excellent post, Percy Thrower couldn't have put it over better.
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Post by jamo on Jul 2, 2015 19:29:25 GMT 1
My marrow has wilted in the heat, despite numerous methods to coax it into life it remains limp. Any advice ?
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Post by Deleted on Jul 2, 2015 23:38:55 GMT 1
My marrow has wilted in the heat, despite numerous methods to coax it into life it remains limp. Any advice ? The thought of you having a limp Marrow and trying to coax it into life has ruined my evening . Still, here goes. Marrows aren't hardy and do need some protection from strong winds . They do like rich, moist soil with good drainage else the roots will get waterlogged when they are watered regularly, which they need. They should be watered copiously around the plant not over the plant . I was told to sink a small pot by the plant so that it could be watered through the pot, the water going directly down to the roots.When I first tried Marrows , which are pretty trouble free I was soaking the plant over and around the plant . In hot weather the soil set like concrete so it was getting sod all water . I found Marrows ( courgettes ) pretty easy to grow , trouble is when they produce you could end up with more than you can cope with . They more you take the more you are likely to get. Happy Marrow growing
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